Category Archives: The Small Isles and Mull

Ardfern to Oitir Mor, Kerrera

Saturday 27 August 2022

56:24.73N 005:31.51W – click for google maps

Click to view our whole route in google maps

After a rather poor season we finally seem to have a couple of promising weeks – at least for weather if not really for wind – but we’ll take what we can get.

We have a relaxed departure just after noon to catch tide north. The wind is a very light S’ly and once clear of Craignish it is perfectly cancelled by our SOG – giving apparent wind of 0.0kts. But we have warm sunshine and with a strong flood tide pushing along we make good progress with modest engine revs.

Entering the Sound of Luing the wind veers a little and combined with tidal stream and boat speed gave us enough for a decent beat through the Sound as far as Easdale – before everything cancelled again.

We anchored at Oitir Mor Bay – Kerrera – just time to get tent up before light, but persistent, rain and watch a sea eagle circle round us before landing near the fish cages to the north.

Kerrera to Loch Aline

Sunday 28 August 2022

56:33.26N 005:45.16W – click for google maps

Click to view our whole route in google maps

Overcast at first and with the tide at Lismore against us until the afternoon we go ashore for a walk. The sky gradually clears and the scenery is quite stunning – warmer that we expect and grateful for a Wee Isles ice cream from the farm shop on our return.

Lunch at anchor as we watch a dozen mergansers practice their synchronised diving close by the boat.

We expected to motor all the way to Loch Aline with some helpful tide – springs today – but once through the Lismore race the wind picked up with 7-9kts NW’ly and we have a great beat up the Sound of Mull right to the entrance to Loch Aline – with a pair of HR36s ahead and behind us (Petrel IX and Gannet IX).

The pontoons were largely empty, as were all the moorings and we anchored near the head with 2 or 3 other boats with more arriving – eventually there were 9-10 boats anchored north and the pontoons still empty. Probably down to large bulk carrier loading sand from the mine – the noise could be heard even at the loch head.

Loch Aline to Kilchoan

Monday 29 August 2022

56:41.55N 006:07.09W – click for google maps

Click to view our whole route in google maps

Landing at the mooring pier we find a new stone seat with great views of the tower house.

We carry on to the Ardtornish Estate – through the yard and up the hill as far as the hydro intake and the new road. The estate looks well cared with more, very smart, holiday accommodation being converted from estate buildings, but chatting to a resident we learn that many of the employees have made redundant and replaced by contractors and things are not entirely happy. A decent hoard of chanterelles and good foraging for brambles on our way back to the boat for lunch.

Still very little wind and, apart from an hour sailing, we motor to Kilchoan leaving Loch Aline spot on low water (0.4m under keel in the narrows)  and riding the tide north. Tobermory looked quiet as we passed – the pontoons especially so. We pick up a mooring at Kilchoan displacing the resident shag and are rewarded with the most amazing evening light followed by an even more stunning sunset – the entire sky on fire!

Kilchoan to Portuairk, Sanna Bay

Tuesday 30 August 2022

56:44.22N 006:11.29W – click for google maps

Click to view our whole route in google maps

Up and off before 8 motoring to Sanna Bay. We manage a brief sail but the wind eases after 20 minutes – but a stunning day and a real pleasure to ease round Ardnamurchan.

We anchor at the Sanna end of the Bay just off the beach (56:44.37N 006:11.08W – click for google maps) and head ashore for an excellent walk round the headland west of Sanna hitting all the cairns.

Although nothing much was forecast in the way of wind we seemed to be getting a steady 7kts NW at anchor so decided to sail somewhere – Moidart or Eigg. As we left the bay the wind quickly died away and in no mood for motoring we turned around and back in, this time anchoring at Portuairk – with another excellent walk to the high cairn looking toward Ardnamurchan light. Another good, if less dramatic sunset.

Portuairk to South Bay, Eigg

Wednesday 31 August 2022

56:52.53N 006:07.71W – click for google maps

Click to view our whole route in google maps

The light/non-existent winds continue but at least with the consolation of superb weather – so we keep distances short and motor across to Eigg. At one point the wind looked good for the gennacker but annoyingly died just as we had everything rigged and were about to unfurl the sail. We saw our first dolphins of the season – a pod of maybe 12 common – but actively fishing and not the least bit interested in us.

We were soon anchored in South Bay – just us – going ashore to the new shop/cafe etc – all very smart and the shop very well stocked – fresh greengages! Too late to climb the Sghorr but an excellent walk past Glamisdale House and round to Grunin. Stunning views across to Skye, the mainland to the east and Muck with Coll behind – all with the Sghorr towering above us.

Returning to the jetty we found that someone had ‘helpfully’ moved our dingy down one ring – with the tide coming in fast I was only just able to untie it without getting truly wet. A drink on the terrace at the cafe – busy with mainland builders relaxing after a long day working on the final touches to the new pier buildings.

Eigg to Gallanach Bay Muck

Thursday 1 September 2022

56:50.52N 006:15.28W – click for google maps

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An even shorter motor to Gallanach Bay, Muck with no prospect at all of sailing, where we anchored well in. A perfect clear blue day, the warmest so far, with cows cooling off on the beach at Gallanach.

Lunch then ashore to walk to walk the western sector of the island coastal circuit and up to the summit of Beinn Airein. Remarkable scenery and views with another white tailed eagle on cliffs just south of the final push to the summit. What a day!

Muck to Mallaig

Friday 2 September 2022

57:00.33N 005:49.57W – click for google maps

Click to view our whole route in google maps

The settled weather ended overnight and with rain and strong winds forecast for the next few days we depart to Mallaig soon after 7.30. Initially dry but raining soon after we leave the bay. A decent sailing wind at last – close reach to the south of Eigg – and then on the wind towards Mallaig and now in the dry. The wind dies a few miles out and we motor in arriving well before noon and take our favourite berth – stern to the fishing boats and lifeboat. The marina is already busy – Quintet from Ardfern follows us in – and is full by early afternoon. A treat to have bread from the the Old Quay Bakehouse for lunch,

We stay here for 3 nights – more fresh bread and wonderful almond croissants from the Bakehouse, some housekeeping and a couple of decent walks – the Loch Nostaire circuit on Saturday – dry throughout – with drinks that evening on Quintet.

Sunday dawns wet but soon clears and another good walk – this time the ‘Mallaig circuit’ with great views from the summit over the Sound – and by extending the walk round the coast track to Mallaigmore – we get views over Loch Nevis toward Inverie.