Category Archives: The Southern Isles

Ardfern to Gallanach Bay, Crinan

Sunday 14 May 2023

56:06.43N 005:33.42W – click for google maps

Click to view our whole route in google maps

Last week saw Argyll in a mini heatwave – no wind to speak of but perfect weather to finish getting Swallow ready for a new season. Everything changed last night as a cold front came through leaving us with plenty of sunshine but coupled with gusty NW/Wly winds, squally showers and low temperatures. Rarely has a cold front felt so cold.

The weather is looking mixed for the next week and we decide to put the wind behind us and head south to start. Our 2-3pm departure kept getting derailed and we almost defer leaving until Monday morning after unexpectedly bumping into Ro & Chris on the pontoon. But then the tides would be even less helpful and we finally get away just after 5pm with the (very) modest goal of Gallanach Bay by Duntrune Castle opposite Crinan.

A fast sail down Loch Craignish – closer to the wind that we expected with it often dipping south of west but soon anchored in this excellent spot – and by now the wind had settled into the west/ WNW giving us good shelter albeit with a little swell from the remnant of the earlier SW’lies.

This was our last anchorage last year and we didn’t expect to be back so soon but a very good choice and it sets us up nicely for an early departure south tomorrow to make the most of a couple of hours of favourable tides

Gallanach Bay to the Fairy Isles, Loch Sween

Monday 15 May 2023

56:01.74N 005:35.6W – click for google maps

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Only a couple of hours of favourable tide south meant an early start and we left a cold, bright Crinan before 7.30 with a gusty F4 NW/W’ly and soon moving along very nicely. PredictWind now includes a short term UKMO forecast at 2km resolution and this was uncannily accurate in predicting a vicious squall at 9am off Loch na Cille. We saw it coming reefed in anticipation and enjoyed 20 mins of F7 on the beam – it certainly saw off the effect of the tide that was starting to slow us down. A couple of boats running north off Jura but otherwise we have the sound to ourselves.

Soon round Dana Island and into Loch Sween – out of the tide and sea but keeping the same gusty F4 giving us a fast reach up the loch with just a couple of tacks needed near the castle. We pass Tayvallich and anchor in the southern part of the main Fairy Islands anchorage – great shelter and very attractive. Our first visit here – a long haul up the loch but worth the detour (at least once).

We’re soon after neaps and the tidal range is tiny leaving much of the inner channels dry or impassable even in a dingy – but a long row around without landing – not much ashore so dingy or kayak definitely the the best way to explore.

Fairy Isles to Muileann Eiteag Bhàg, Loch Caolisport

Tuesday 16 May 2023

55:54.11N 005:39.45W – click for google maps

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Another early start to catch a couple of hours of south-going tide as we hop down to Loch Caolisport for the day – new territory for us. A pleasing close reach down Loch Sween with the same gusty F4 W’ly – and good views of a group of 5 great northern divers – probably just about to migrate north for the summer.

We keep the tide with us all the way and into Loch Caolisport before 9am – and soon anchored in sand at the delightful Muileann Eiteag Bhàg. Plenty of trees ashore give excellent shelter from the wind but open to the S/SW meaning a little swell but nothing uncomfortable. We’re here for the day and will sail down to Gigha mid-afternoon with the ebb.

Another 3 great northern divers – we normally see none unless we’re out early in the season – maybe they’ve delayed migration a little with our late spring? Very attractive ashore with easy access to Kilmory and the chapel and what looks like some excellent walking.

Loch Caolisport to Ardminish Bay, Gigha

Tuesday/Wednesday 16-17 May 2023

55:40.45N 005:43.95W – click for google maps

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A really excellent sail to Gigha – F4-5 W’ly giving us a great beam reach all the way with the tide pushing us on and we were soon picking up a mooring in Ardminish Bay – only 4 others occupied plus 1 motor cruiser on the pontoon.

Wednesday was forecast light winds and we decide to stay 2 nights at Gigha. First stop was Achamore Gardens – after a few sad years they are back to their previous glory and mid-May is the perfect time to visit for the thousands of rhododendrons all carpeted with bluebells.

Lunch back on board – the Boathouse was very busy with day visitors – and then off to the north of the island to climb Creag Bhàn. Only 100m but substantially the highest point and amazing views – the sight of the sea all around confirming that Gigha is indeed an island. We’d seen Prospero on MarineTraffic,beating south from Tayvallich, and could just see her off Kilberry from the top – Ro & Chris joined us after supper for drink and catch-up.

We’ve been watching yet another group of great northern divers in Ardminish Bay – at least 3 – since we arrived and one finally comes close enough for a decent photo.

Gigha to Port Ellen, Islay

Thursday 18 May 2023

55:37.66N 006:11.28W – click for google maps

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We dropped the mooring at Gigha around 0800 and soon had sails out heading SE down the Sound, one tack to round Cara and then direct south of Texa and into Port Ellen. The forecast had the wind easing from delightfully sailable to too light by lunchtime with rain forecast by 2pm – and again PredictWind UKMO 2km delivered. An excellent sail with a slight sea on a pleasant SW swell with us keeping the wind all the way and tied up at Port Ellen with the tent up 10 minutes before a few hours of light but very wet rain. It cleared for a lovely evening and a walk round the bay to The Ard.

The only hiccup is no power on the pontoons – one of the reasons we’d come here. But my new power set up with 2 Jackery 1kwh power banks to run the freezer resolves much of the problem this might have caused. The freezer is by far our main consumer of power when anchored or moored and the power banks preserved the house batteries and at 10kg are portable enough to be recharged in the marina shore facilities – which also provide excellent showers.

No rental cars available so Friday saw us on rented e-bikes heading first east to Kildalton – with a short stop at Ardbeg Distillery for a coffee. Kildalton Cross is more than 1200 years old, in remarkable condition and, most unusually, still in in original location. There is now a foot/cycle path past Laphroag and Lagavulin as far as Ardbeg – and then a very scenic narrow single track road, the sides lined with bluebells and giving lovely coast views.

Back to the Ardbeg cafe for chowder for lunch and briefly to the boat in time to let go our neighbour from last night – Sea Jay – a stunning Rhodes 6-tonner from Chichester spending the season touring the Hebrides.

Time for another e-bike foray – west this time to the start-point for a walk around Kilnaughton to the Singing Sands and back in time for showers and supper in the Whisky Bar at the Islay Hotel.

Port Ellen to West Loch Tarbert, Jura

Saturday 20 May 2023

55:58.44N 005:53.95W – click for google maps

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We’re now at Springs and as well as getting the tide right in terms of direction, wind over tide is more of an issue – especially in the Sound of Islay with streams up to almost 6kt. Today looked perfect to head north with a light SE’ly forecast – this means motoring but we need to recharge house batteries anyway. Waiting another day at Port Ellen or one of the SE Islay anchorages would let us sail but beating against a F4 N/NW’ly as we ride the tide up the Sound tomorrow = very unpleasant.

No hurry to be away – the flood starts around noon – so time to wait for the Saturday papers to arrive on the mainland ferry to Port Askaig. We then take a route inside Texa – the sea completely smooth and just a breath of wind. This turns out to be another great northern diver muster point – with 18 seen in 2 groups. We go onto to see a further 6 – near the Ardmore Islands and in West Loch Tarbert – that makes 35 so far this cruise – we normally see none! We also spot a wild goat on Texa.

The quiet, slightly misty conditions give very serene views of the SE distilleries – the current 3 Port Ellen ones soon to be added to by the reopening of Port Ellen (currently the PE Maltings) where the new still house looks almost complete – a dramatic glass fronted building with the new stills installed. Then a fifth will join them in a year or so – site preparation is well underway midway between Port Ellen and Laphroag.

Wind, weather and tides are exactly as forecast (again PredictWinds UKMO 2km got it spot on – others were more pessimistic on rain) and we get a decent tidal boost from the Ardmores on – with 4-6 kts of assist for most of the Sound as we head for West Loch Tarbert. We unfurl the jib for a little but the wind remains light and deep, much of its strength being sapped by tide and boat speed.

With a F2-3 SE forecast through to midnight followed by an almost instant to F4-5 NW’ly we motor past the outer loch anchorages – Glenbatrick and lodge pictured below – pass through the narrows and anchor off the bothy in the inner loch. All with perfect timing: just time to anchor and rig the cockpit tent before the rain starts.

West Loch Tarbert to Oronsay

Sunday 21 May 2023

56:01.07N 006:13.59W – click for google maps

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The rain continued all evening and much of the night but dry and the cloud starting to break by morning – coupled with another N’ly wind shift and marked drop in temperature – not that it had been very high.

Away late morning towards the end of the ebb and a leisurely and increasingly sunny beat across to Oronsay in W/NW’ly F2-4. We anchored first in the NE bay but a little too much swell to be comfortable and we quickly moved to the centre bay, tucking well in in 2m CD and largely eliminating the swell other than close to high water when the reefs to the SW cover.

A walk ashore, some more photos of Swallow and back for supper. One boat still here from last night and a third boat joins us late afternoon from Loch Tarbert.