Category Archives: The Small Isles & the Uists

Ardfern to Torsa Bay

Thursday 24 August 2023

56:15.28N 005:37.6W – click for google maps

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Not a promising forecast for today but we want to head north and the tides are not particularly helpful. The options are either a very early start or, as we chose, mid-afternoon taking advantage of the early flood through Dorus Mor and then Cuan Sound – with Torsa Bay, providing a secure anchorage for the forecast SW’lies, even if they veer NW overnight.

We did better than we feared with the last food loaded in the dry, which then held for a 3.30pm departure and motor, head to wind up Craignish and through Dorus Mor. Winds up to F4-5 and enough apparent to then unfurl the jib for a decent deep reach north, keeping Shuna to starboard. But the rain then arrived in style – never much fun when sailing downwind – and soon thoroughly soaked. The pessimists at XC had rain all evening but as so often they were wrong and we motored up the first leg of the Cuan Sound and into Torsa Bay under clearing skies with even a few glimmers of sunshine. Fortunate really as a large quantity of bootlace weed and some kelp balled the anchor and it took 3 drops to get well set.

The sunshine continued giving a beautiful, quiet evening with drinks and supper in the cockpit. A very attractive anchorage with excellent shelter.

Torsa Bay to Loch Aline

Friday 25 August 2023

56:33.34N 005:45.52W – click for google maps

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The SW’lies duly veered NW but we were so well sheltered in Torsa Bay that I didn’t even wake. And a great way to kick start the day – motoring out under clearing skies and a decent amount of low sun following a creel boat around 8am – soon in the fast flowing upper section, passing behind the ferry. The wind had strengthened and although only 15kts was directly against 3-4kts of tide just after these 2 photos – giving a short section of interesting overfalls before we popped out at the top of the sound of Luing by Easdale Island.

Sails out and rather than take the channel inside Insh Island we keep a starboard tack (better for porridge preparation) and hold this until close to Mull and then a lovely beat all the way to Lady Rock, just south of Lismore Light, which was looking particularly sublime today. We kept mainly close to Mull but crossed right over to Kerrera on one tack to get a long starboard ‘coffee’ tack back to Loch Don – these details are important! Until now we pretty much had the Firth of Lorne to ourselves, just a couple of creel boats, and a few ferries in the distance.

The wind then died completely but only for 15 minutes or so – we motored then motor sailed round Duart Point when it came back with a vengeance – once again we were head to. More excellent beating – progressively reefing down as the wind built to F5 – we kept to the Morvern side of the Sound of Mull gaining a flat sea and some smoothing of the gusts from the well-wooded coast. We’d seen a few squalls in most directions but kept dry all day with plenty of sun – quite perfect in fact.

A few more tacks in and out of Ardtornish Bay passing close to the ruins of the Ardtornish Castle before furling sails and motoring into Loch Aline. It may not sound far given we often sail from Ardfern to Tobermory in a day – but with all the beating we logged 41nm and felt as though we’d had a decent workout.

The wind will continue to blow from the NE to NW and we opt again to anchor towards the head tucked well in on the west side. Our usual spot was taken and we go a little further up – which is possibly even better. A large, gently shelving area all with the same brilliant holding and wrap around trees cutting the wind from north to west. And perfect timing – the first rain of the day starting within a few minutes of rigging the cockpit tent – and time for a late lunch/early tea.

We were joined shortly by another HR342 (Aria) and Quintet and the showers petered out by 7pm with lovely evening sun catching Ardtornish House at the loch head.

Loch Aline to Tobermory

Saturday 26 August 2023

56:37.15N 006:03.85W – click for google maps

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Very quiet in Loch Aline and looking as though we may be motoring up the Sound of Mull. The plan is to pick up a mooring at Tobermory, get the weekend papers, check the weather and maybe continue on to Kilchoan.

The Sound was almost as quiet, maybe 3-4kts of N’ly but bright and dry. We try motor sailing, not enough wind for the jib, furl it, wait 30 seconds and unfurl it again as the wind returns but now 3 times as strong. It continues to build, the weather deteriorates and we end up beating all the way to Tobermory with apparent wind of 25-28kts. Shame it had to rain but the sailing was fast, furious and quite excellent – Swallow behaved impeccably. Needless to say we were the only sailing boat going north and certainly the only one actually sailing.

As we neared Tobermory we started to meet a fleet of departing boats sailing downwind leaving the pontoons and moorings largely empty for our arrival just after noon. Despite it having rained most of the morning the wind was strong enough to keep it out of the cockpit and we had the cockpit tent rigged within minutes of taking the innermost mooring.

The wind and rain continued for much of the afternoon and it seemed a good idea to stay put. A visit to Tobermory Fish yielded crab, smoked mackerel pâté, hot roast salmon and a fish pie and the Coop provided the FT Weekend and last Guardian. No photos – too busy helming and reefing and not the most inspiring visibility.

Tobermory to Arinagour, Coll

Sunday 27 August 2023

56:37.16N 006:31.27W – click for google maps

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The wind eased overnight and with more NW’lies forecast we drop our mooring just after 7.30am heading for Arinagour on Coll. Once breakfasted and clear of Mull we have a decent wind close hauled just about making Arinagour – supplementing with sufficient revs to recharge batteries. Overcast with the odd glimmer of sun but dry and a very pleasing light – here looking north to the Small Isles and Skye.

Half way across the wind falls away and we furl the jib continuing under engine with a little help from the main – arriving just as Clansman departs and picking up a good, close-in mooring. A few boats in but by no means full – much the same in Tobermory yesterday – maybe the Covid boom is finally over.

Arinagour is as lovely as ever with yet more new houses since our last visit – and the shop is restored (although closed for Sunday) with a small gin distillery attached. A wander ashore up round the church and then out past the Calmac pier to Eilean Ornsay – looking lovely with the heather in bloom despite the slightly murky weather.

Arinagour to Canna

Monday 28 August 2023

57:03.37N 006:29.67W – click for google maps

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Very comfortable in Arinagour – the run of N’lies has dampened the usual SW’ly swell and the wind stayed mainly in the west – quite brisk at times. Monday was looking a little brighter and the forecast was for steady F4 NW’lies – making it a perfect wind for a passage to Canna.

We head north, keeping reasonably close to Coll on a beam reach, then heading up as we round the Cairns. The wind strengthens, we reef, eases, we let the reef out, backs to W and strengthens again and then drops away leaving us motor sailing the last few miles. A few yachts motoring away from Canna but only one other seems to heading there – Ayla – one of Tony Bennett’s Argyll Yacht Charters boats. They arrive just ahead of us leaving us with a choice of 9 of 10 moorings with just one of the ever increasing small ‘expedition’ boats anchored. It definitely feels quite end of season – very different from the last 3 years.

We’re followed in by Eda Frandsen – the classic Danish gaff cutter that is always a delight to see. And with the harbour almost empty she anchored just behind us rather than outside the harbour.

Ashore on Tuesday we talk to her charterers – a Pennsylvanian and friend of Margaret Fay Shaw (she was from there) making a final visit (of many) to Canna with a group of his friends. She would have been heartened to see the work underway on Canna House. When we were last here the NTS were clearing the house ready to start and the house is now swathed in scaffolding with a compound of site offices and sleeping units providing a temporary ‘village’ for the substantial construction team.

After a ferocious night (F6-7 and numerous squalls) everything is slowly quietening down – good to see some blue sky and sun again.

We walk over to Sanday and then a little later I head back ashore to the old pier to fill our water containers and bump into Jim Dobie – one of my Yachtmaster instructors who I last saw in 2008/9 in the Sydney-Hobart race! He’s here skippering an occasional cruise out of Oban in a Beneteau 523.

Canna to Galmisdale, Eigg

Wednesday 30 August 2023

56:52.49N 006:07.8W – click for google maps

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The NW’lies built again overnight reducing to 15kts or so as we leave Canna. They won’t last so we are using the wind we have for a short tour of the Small Isles. We take the route north of Rum heading for Galmisdale on Eigg, passing Loch Nevis, the Small Isles ferry, en route from Rum to Canna with the Red Cuillins behind.

We lose the jib as the wind eases and our course turns SEwards to round Eigg – here with Rum behind. We take a close line and as with Raasay last month see detail we usually miss – a fine layer of columnar basalt, a distinctive pale grey sedimentary layer and then what looks like more basalt, a spectacular waterfall just south of the northern tip and many densely tree’d areas – native temperate rain forest clinging precariously in clefts on almost vertical cliffs.

We motor through the east entrance to the Galmisdale Harbour and take the narrow channel linking to South Harbour where we anchor next to Gipsy Moth III – the beautiful 39’ cutter built for Francis Chichester and with which he won the first solo trans-Atlantic race in 1960 – the small b&w photo. Lovely to see her back in the UK and in Scottish waters.

A fine walk ashore around Poll nam Partan bay – this is probably the best anchorage on Eigg but with the wind forecast to go SE and strengthen overnight – not an ideal spot to anchor today. Stunning scenery and very useful to scout out the best landing spots – basically a choice between long dingy ride or decent walk to the excellent new harbour facilities. Neither ideal perhaps but not really a hardship if the weather is like today.

Back to Swallow for coffee and cake before heading off again – South Harbour is already getting rather swelly and the forecast winds will make it even less comfortable by morning – so we are going to Gallanach Bay on Muck.

Eigg to Gallanach Bay, Muck

Wed 30 & Thur 31 August 2023

56:50.55N 006:15.26W – click for google maps

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It’s only 6nm to Gallanach Bay and I was expecting to motor – but found more wind than anticipated giving us a good fast sail, even a reef in the main, with just a couple of tacks to take us to the entrance to the bay. This is an anchorage that really does require the Antares chart to feel confident about entering. The Admiralty chart is all dark blue with plenty of drying reefs and rocks – many of which don’t exist or are wrongly located – the reality is a wide channel with 8m CD leading to a wide, gently shelving anchoring area with 3-4m CD and mainly clean sand.

The remnants of swell from the run of N’lies soon ease and we have a very quiet night with just one other boat joining us.  A full moon – quite stunning – rising above Gallanach Lodge.

By morning the wind is SE as forecast and F3-4 well justifying our decision to move yesterday late afternoon. Ashore we walk into Port Mor to take a good look at the anchorage – now blocked somewhat by 3 MOWI fish farm buoys but landing possible on their floating pontoon so some compensation – but it doesn’t really appeal and when the wind/swell works for Port Mor it will also for several much better spots in the Small Isles. Lunch at the cafe and then back to walk out to the point to the west of Gallanach and watch the sheep walking in single file across the reef back from Lamb Island as the tide rolls in. Perfect weather – this anchorage must qualify as one of the best views in the Hebrides and arguably anywhere.