Category Archives: Lewis & skye

Ardfern to Loch Aline

Monday 17 July 2023

56:33.21N 005:45.72W – click for google maps

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After a remarkable spell of fine weather in May and June Argyll has returned to ’normal’ weather – so plenty of rain, wind and sensible temperatures. A wet and windy weekend but promise of at least a few decent days this week and we depart Ardfern mid-morning to catch the flood tide north. Fenders and lines away, coffee and then sails out – with a close reach from Church Bay, tacking through Dorus Mor. The wind went to the west earlier than forecast so rather than drifting north with barely enough wind behind us we kept a decent breeze at 60° apparent and stormed along with the Spring flood.

Plenty of company today – I counted around 20 sails at one point. The usual auks and gannets and, less common here, a large group of shearwaters as well as a few porpoises. Fladda Light looked as impressive as always.

Despite the wind easing for while and going back to the south we managed to sail throughout, end with a good fast beat from Duart Point to Loch Aline – with a few squalls to keep us company. The pontoons at Lochaline were just about full – not that we were planning to stop there – we anchored on the west side towards the head of the loch, with the usual stunning views of Ardtornish House – set off beautifully by the anchored HR352.

Loch Aline to Tobermory

Tues-Wed 18-19 July 2023

56:37.16N 006:03.83W – click for google maps

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No wind forecast this morning so a lazy start watching the acrobatic seals on the nearby reef.

Coffee and into the Sound where we proceed very slowly with just a smidge of wind behind us – too slow even to catch mackerel! We abandon sailing after lunch, motor for a while until the wind swings almost 180°, strengthens and gives us an exhilarating, fast beat on a flat sea right into Tobermory harbour. With our lateish arrival we expected a distant mooring but then picked up the one closest to the pontoons! Our amazement was complete by securing the last table for dinner at Cafe Fish!!

We’d intended a single night here but ashore came across posters for the 100th Tobermory Highland Games on Thursday – complete with pipe-band parade – and a food festival on Wednesday – up the hill by the Tobermory Fish Company – and quickly settled on a second night.

Cafe Fish was as good as ever, the food festival proved an excellent lunch stop on a walk through Aros Park – and the harbour provided plenty of interesting boat traffic under light winds and blue skies. First up was a Dutch, 1913 built schooner – Abel Tasman departing as Blue Clipper motored past the bay.

I’ve discounted the Belgian Oyster 65 (getting rather common) but Chloe Gisellea Spirit Yachts 65 is both a rarity and quite stunning.

Wednesday also saw the arrival of the 2 Skirr 68 expedition yachts – the latest Clipper spinoff – heading north from us to the Faroes, Iceland and Greenland.

Finally there’s the distinctly odd, bright yellow aqua-car that seems to be based at the Western Isles Hotel. He ‘drives’ past – hooks up to an outer mooring, opens the roof, climbs out and trolls for mackerel! Surreal….

Tobermory to Duisdalemor, Skye

Thursday 20 July 2023

57:09.48N 005:47.76W – click for google maps

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Another row ashore for the Oban High School pipe-band parade from the Tobermory Distillery, along the main street and then up the hill to the golf course – lead by the current McClean clan chief – Sir Lachlan Maclean of Duart, showing admirable stamina as the parade took to the very steep hill.

We needed to be away so passed on the Games – a good decision as whilst the rain stayed away for the parade a prolonged, heavy shower hit Tobermory with a vengeance a hour later. By this time we were tucked under the sprayhood with no wind, motoring across Bloody Bay. The rain passed, the sun appeared and the wind was just enough for a slow motor-sailed (we needed to charge the batteries) beat to Ardnamurchan. Once round we cut the engine and sailed on a lovely beam reach towards Eigg – our planned stop for today.

Just past Muck a change of plan. With the sailing so good and a favourable tide we decide to press on for another 20 odd miles and stop instead at Duisdale – Camas nam Mult. This is only an hour from Kyle Rhea – allowing an early start tomorrow to catch the last of the flood through this non-negotiable tidal gate.

Passing the Point of Sleat the Mallaig Lifeboat roars past – heading for near Elgol – no Mayday heard but from a few snatched VHF exchanges later it looked to be a shout rather than just training.

We’d previously been joined for 20 minutes or so by 4-5 dolphins and they returned opposite Loch Nevis with the whole pod – staying for at least 30 minutes – riding our bow wave and leaping on all sides. The first this year.

We arrived at Duisdale just before 8pm – 5 boats already in but one mooring free. We normally prefer to anchor here – inside the moorings – but with an early start the mooring was very welcome

Duisdalemor to Rubha n’Leac, Raasay

Friday 21 July 2023

57:22.24N 005:59.9W – click for google maps

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The rain cleared through overnight making our early – 6.45 departure – very acceptable if a little chill. This photo looks back at the Duisdale moorings and, just opposite, the beautiful, misty view into Loch Hourne. The only thing missing was wind – but if you have to motor you couldn’t ask for a better day or more scenic route.

Our timing was perfect – we were at Kyle Rhea within an hour and with almost 6kts of tidal stream our SOG peaked at 11.3 kts. The initial plan had been to head to Plockton, but with the very quiet weather and desire to get to some of the more northerly anchorages that was quickly changed. First stop was a compact anchorage in the SE of Raasay. We’d seen a boat hanging in there in horrible weather but the Antares chart write up was promising and it made a perfect stop for coffee and a quick row ashore.

This part of Raasay has very diverse geological bones and the landscape is quite fantastic – from the volcanic core of Dun Caan to the massive blocks of sandstone littering the bay. A stunning little anchorage – maybe not as secure feeling as some but in settled weather near perfect.

Rubha n’Leac to Loch Kerry, Gairloch

Friday 21 July 2023

57:42.04N 005:40.71W – click for google maps

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Refreshed we continued our motor cruise north – still barely a breath of wind and mainly blue skies and sun. A quick VHF call to BUTEC Range Control confirmed that they were using the underwater test range today – but the requested course, staying close to Raasay and Rona, was exactly our planned route anyway.

Very few other yachts up here, we passed only 3 today – a complete contrast to Tobermory and the Sound of Mull. But plenty of mountains – the inland ranges looking particularly scenic today: here looking east just before the entrance to Loch Gairloch. Looking west we had great views of the the Shiants with Lewis and Harris behind.

Loch Kerry – our second ’new to us’ anchorage today is tucked in on the east side – perfect for the very light E/NE’ly winds forecast. Unfortunately, our arrival coincided with a spell of W’lies – 9-12kts worth, missing from the UKMO 2km forecast and enough to raise a decent chop and turn our secure anchorage into a lee shore. But the holding is good and after a few hours the wind abated and went back to a more sensible direction. A very attractive anchorage with a lovely sand beach, well wooded, complete with a colony of inquisitive grey seals and a white tailed eagle circling low overhead.

Loch Kerry to Stornoway

Saturday 22 July 2023

58:12.61N 006:23.39W – click for google maps

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With light E’lies at first, forecast to back NE and strengthen steadily and a likely destination of Lochinver we make another early start. Breakfast as we motor sail out of Loch Gairloch, taking the dog-leg channel inside Longa Island and then a decent beam reach due north to Rubha Reidh and its light.

As we round the point and bear NE to cross the 20nm bay past the Summer Isles the wind starts to back and we are already missing our mark and toying with heading to Ullapool instead – but with the wind strengthening and veering in the east that looks even less attractive. But another glorious day with tremendous views east over Loch Ewe.

After 8nm the wind backs again and we can’t make much better than due north – almost heading to Lewis – and both wind and sea are building steadily. Stornoway suddenly looks like a interesting option – only 28nm away at the end of a beam reach and with a good fast crossing we should get there before the wind becomes too uncomfortable. So a quick check of all the various PredictWind models, drop the reef and we’re soon shooting away to NW. The new course also puts the sea on the starboard quarter and boat speed is up to 7kts.

The forecast is pretty much spot on (a little conservative but only by 3-4kts)  and the wind steadily builds at 2-3kts per hour with the sea following suit. We progressively reef down to 2 front and back – enough to keep the boat reasonably flat and optimise our speed at near 7kts. Totally exhilerating if a little gruelling at times – but the best sail we have had for ages! Coming into Stornoway we have a steady F5 gusting F6 still on the beam and wind our way into the marina. Berthing proved trickier than expected – our allocated berth was billed as starboard to – which would have meant being blown on. We set lines and fenders accordingly only to find that it was actually port side to and being blown off – with the full 20kts gusting 25 making it into this part of the marina and very little space to hang and reset lines. A couple of locals came to take lines and without their help it would have difficult to get on. And just to add a little frisson – the boat sharing the pen is called Lady Hysteria!

Safely docked and refreshed we take advantage of the gorgeous weather for a long walk around the Lews Castle grounds ending at the castle itself. built on the higher ground overlooking the town by James Matheson out of the profits of his opium trading, the gargoyle reflecting this Chinese legacy.

Stornoway to Loch Mariveg via Loch Thorasdaidh

Monday 24 July 2023

Loch Thorasdaidh – 58:05.92N 006:26.44W – click for google maps

Loch Mariveg –  58:06.09N 006:23.66W – click for google maps

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Sunday in Stornoway is always quiet – everything is closed! A few boats came and went, a few chores got done and another long and good walk – this time climbing Gallows Hill with its tremendous view over the inner harbour.

Monday saw us heading south with two new (to us) anchorages our target. The wind has eased and backed NW giving a gentle deep reach (perfect for coffee making) to the mouth of Loch Eireasort and then a lovely close /beam reach along the loch south into Loch Thorasdaidh where we anchored for lunch between Sgeir Glas Hurista and Eilean Chalium Chille (St.Columba’s Isle) – 58:05.92N 006:26.44W – click for google maps – next to Annika. A very attractive anchorage – well sheltered except from the SW, excellent holding and good 4G signal. I rowed over to Annika for a chat.

Anchor up and off a few miles to Loch Mariveg – another gentle jib only deep reach and then through Caolas na h-Acarsaid – the main entrance channel – narrow and rugged but very straightforward with the wind still in the NW. Once through the northern part of Loch Mariveg is revealed. A large pool surrounded by islands, anchoring depth throughout and numerous bays and inlets giving sheltered options for all wind directions – and stunning scenery. We anchor in the NW inlet – holding excellent and the whole giving an immense feeling of security.